Adventure activities in Rajasthan (Part 3): Camel safari in Jaisalmer

Seeing the sun rise before our trip.

 ACTIVITY #3: Camel safari

The Place: Jaisalmer
The Date: Jan. 11-12, 2012
The Cost: 1,700 rupees
Thrill Level, from 1 to 10: 3 (there’s always the danger of falling off the camel, and there’s a tiny rush when it’s time to get on and off the camel)

For my 1.5-day trip, we left Jaisalmer in the morning by jeep, had a basic breakfast while watching the sun rise, rode a camel for about two hours, had lunch, and then rested for two hours. Then we got back on a camel for another two hours until we reached some sand dunes, where we set up camp and had dinner and beer (not included in the price). The next morning we had a simple breakfast and rode camels for about two hours until we reached a jeep that brought us back to Jaisalmer by lunchtime.

There are variations on this model and the number of meals included. One night in the desert is usually enough to get a feel for the whole thing. It’s really fun, and the desert dunes and stars are beautiful. I admit how much fun you have likely depends on your fellow travelers, particularly when you’re alone like I was. Luckily my group of five included two women traveling together and two guys traveling together. Our guide commented it was the first time in a long time he got a group that didn’t include a couple, and thank goodness. Since I usually travel by myself, my nightmare is being on a tour that’s all couples and me (no offense to couples).

Riding the camel itself can be uncomfortable; I was shocked I was so sore, considering I wasn’t exercising or anything. I met one traveler who just opted to walk, like the guides. Yes, we go that slow. While riding the camel, I played Sudoku.

What You Should Know: Trotters is one of the pricier outfits. I actually tried booking with Renuka Hotel, but since I was the only one signed up they couldn’t take me. However, the owner at Renuka got me on the Trotters tour (though it was 200 more than I was slated to pay at Renuka). The Renuka owner said that his outfit, Trotters and Shahi Palace Hotel all run tours to the same “non-touristic” places that are farthest off the beaten path, and that no one else runs tours to those places (when I mentioned this to the Trotters owner he said his tour goes farther than the other two, but I’ve found that everyone tends to disparage everyone else’s tours). The Renuka guy said Trotters used to be cheaper until it got the Lonely Planet bump.

Playing around in the dunes where we camped.

Whoever you book with, even if they’re not a hotel, will give you a place to rest and shower after the tour ends, even if you’re leaving the same day on a train or bus.

Impression of Jaisalmer: After the frantic scene that greets you upon exiting the overnight bus—when you are surrounded by representatives of different hotels who are desperately trying to get you into their car so they can drive you to the hotel, which will then pressure you to book a camel tour with them—Jaisalmer becomes more manageable. There aren’t touts, but shopkeepers like to call out to tourists. The fort is filled with residents and shops. It’s the only historical fort that actually has people living and working in it.

Take some time to see the famous havelis (historical mansions). I didn’t actually go in them, but it was enough to see their outside facades. Plus, looking for them took me off the main path and into the winding back streets where people live. 

A local comes up to sell Kingfisher beers for 150 rupees ($3)
each. Not bad considering he had a monopoly.

(For more adventure activities in Rajasthan, check out Part 1, Part 2 and Part 4 of the series.)